|Western Europe, late 16th century to early 17th century|
To judge from the number of examples that survive to the present, enameled rings with high box bezels were enormously successful among aristocratic patrons from the second half of the sixteenth century up through the first half of the seventeenth century. The bright green, white, blue, and red enamel on this ring’s shoulders is comparable with examples from the late sixteenth century.
The smooth hoop of this elegant ring transitions to the box bezel by means of a shoulder formed into curling acanthus foils and strapwork inlaid with enamels in green, blue, white, and translucent red. The square bezel securing a step-cut ruby ascends from a dark-blue base through successive architectonic moldings articulated with colored enamel and incised ornament. Each side of the uppermost level of molding is further adorned with a pair of petal-like cusps and with a pair of letters, GE, HY, TE, and IV (added later?). The ring retains most of its enamel decoration, and is in excellent condition.
|Location of Origin: Europe|
|Medium/Materials: gold, ruby, and enamel|
|Dimensions: Weight 4.0 gr.; bezel 7.9 x 7.3 mm.; circumference: 53.4 mm.; US size 6.75; UK size N½|
|Primary Classification: Jewelry : Ancient / Islamic / Medieval Jewelry|
For comparisons, see the Alice and Louis Koch Collection (published in Chadour 1994, nos. 689, 690, 691), for a variant on this ring with two stones, see the Zucker Collection (published in Scarisbrick 2007, no. 330), the Ashmolean Museum (published in Scarisbrick and Henig 2003, plate 19, nos. 3 & 4), the British Museum (published in Dalton 1912, 1908, 1909).
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